Shaka Zulu is brash, bold and hitting customers up with a larger-than-life experience

Biltong, zebra, ostrich, Snoek pate all form the madder side of Shaka Zulu, a joint that has to be seen to be believed, with a half hundred weight of over-the-top Zulu/African paraphernalia set over 24000 sq ft. Underground in Camden.

The slightly more sane side, which is an unusual juxtaposition, is the lobster and caviar, Colchester rock oysters abd Cornish crab that you can also have.

Entrepreneurialism is a fine thing and when SZ set up it was met with sniffy complaints from mainstream restaurant critics who seem obsessed with well-regarded mainstream dining culture and had made up their minds before they entered.

Shaka Zulu foodMaybe they had little idea about what South African cuisine was and how people liked to enjoy their food. Well, Mr and Mrs Critics, the joint is still open and thriving, full of people who like to have a night out to relax, not to analyse.

The best of the braai grill brings together the mains of huge steaks, tiger prawns, kingfish and grouper for the delectation of diners. Drinkers won’t miss out, though, with a long list of house cocktails under the grand title Shaka Zulu Innovations: the Zwethithini entices with melon juice, lemon juice and champagne; the Loretto boasts a combination of bourbon, peach syrup, Cointreau and Benedictine liquor.

Shaka Zulu may be deliberately ostentatious, on the expensive side, and better situated in the West End rather than Camden, but it is right out there, and for that, it deserves a try.