They don’t have a lawn, but the freshest prawns in Islington!

OK, let’s deal with this first: they don’t have a lawn. You can’t sit on the non-existent lawn. They don’t even have a patch of grass. But they do have prawns. They have oysters. They have fidh, fish, fish. And it is all going swimmingly.

This is a charming little restaurant story of a husband and wife team, he a Fishworks chef, who set up a small fishmonger-cum-fishbar in Islington, which then expanded, morphed and moved into a bigger venue, with hot food and an outpost in Padstow, a brave challenge in the home of the inventor of seafood Rick PoSteidon.

The interior of the Islington venue is classic modern London restaurant design with white metro tiles and wood and brick, but it suits perfectly a bright position that offers the good citizens of St Pauls Road and beyond thrillingly fresh fish (try saying that after a few shots of rum).

The menu is brilliantly simple, yet not. It’s interesting. Depending on the catch they offer up sea bream, monkfish, turbot and lemon sole by weight and a wonderfuly short list of sides (bread, spuds, salad). Starters are small plates of seared tuna with soy and moron, hake with feta and dill, Szechuan prawns, Thai marinated scallops, even ray wing with olives.

The joy is in the freshness, but all with a little twist for cosmopolitan palates. They’ve got whole crab and lobster in a platters section and a buzzing list of wines to seal the deal. If HotJoint has the means, the 70 quid hanging fruit de mer platter would definitely be the favoured destination. It’s Islington but if you listen hard enough, you can hear the gently crash of the waves.