A fresh take on Indian food – from the Gunpowder team. This is what we love!

OK, we wanted a different take on Indian food and we got it. In fact, we’ve been getting it for some time now, but Gul and Sepoy has gone that little it further, and you’d expect no less from the Gunpowder team – Harneet and Davina Baweja.

They have produced a double-headed menu concept with the Gul (think Raj palace feasts) and Sepoy (the rustic cusine of the south-west). But what might feel a bit schitzophrenic, we are assured by the owners, actually complements each other with rich and rustic balancing each other out.

On the Gul side you get whoe leg of roasted kid goat but supplemented with pickled root vegetables. A korma contains three kinds of pultry. Pudding gets you doughy rum flavoured bites with spiced cream cheese and berries.

The sepoy – or soldier – gives you wild rabbit but it comes in a terrine with masala spicing, and the sharing plates produce a social occasion (and let’s face it) a bigger bill!).

G&S is set over two floors of wood-walled heaven with eccentric design flourishes and a fresh plastered wall that makes this contemporary – and it takes bookings, unlike the pair’s two other joints. But they are all closely knit in the Commercial Street area so maybe people can bounce between them if they are busy – maybe this is the idea. And the ubiquitous cocktail experience means some classics but with the Indian twist if that is what blows back your hair.

It is a joy to see Indian cuisine taken in new directions in the capital in a way that is authentic, and true to the hearts of the team behind the restaurant but that also pushes food in London into new areas and which still has the modern London experience of the customer at its heart. Another sure shot from the Gunpowder team.