Fresh, vibrant and colourful – and that’s just the TV celeb owner!
Harissa and maple glazed poussin with crunchy aubergine fries and pomegranate yoghurt; warm baharat spice goat salad and mint yoghurt with baby gem and croutons: this doesn’t sound like the normal sort of “brunch” place does it?
Then Andi Oliver is not the ordinary sort of restaurateur. She’s been in a fee jazz/punk pop band with Neneh Cherry; presented a 90s clips show on TV with gangsta rapper Ice T; she’s now a judge on the Great British Menu.
She’s also a big personality, exuding an amplified West Indian warmth and sunshine positivity.
But this is no fly-by-night cook; this is someone who knows their food, hence the kitchen that serves Andi’s in Stoke Newington, doesn’t just chuck out waffles and syrup, but baked Burford eggs gussied up with chilli and garlic and energy bowls and pastrami sangers. You can also, in the evening, get roast ribeye for 40 notes!
This heavenly corner of Stokey transforms into a proper special occasion joint in the evening, and the ever-chinging food and drink scene in SN has another little gem to try and hold on to. With all this taking pace in gazing distance of the Green.
Oliver is on record as saying that this is the first of many but for now it seems very much a personal affair, a work of passion, not of a spread sheet. With a small courtyard and twinkly lights and a short cocktail list, it’s the sort of place you want to hold on to.