Alain Ducasse is a global chaffing legend who has more three Michelin star restaurants than London

Some interesting Alain Ducasse facts: he has more restaurants with three Michelin stars than London; his restaurants have over 30 Michelin stars. He has over 20 restaurants. His restaurant in Biarritz was bombed by Basque’s who objected to his take on ‘their’ cuisine. So he left.

This is a remarkable data snapshot from a remarkable career in food and drink and his restaurant at the Dorchester is still one of the giants of London fine dining – or indeed, any dining.

OK, the prices on the wines have been rightly categorized as eye-watering, and the dining room itself not favourably compared, design-wise, to other more extravagant operations. But the food, according to most, is beyond compare: a subtle, flavourful take on French with the freshest of fresh ingredients.

Ducasse himself trod the French path working under the big names of Gallic cuisine until the 80s saw him move into the big leagues on his own and beginning a restaurant empire that functions today across the globe.

Emmenthal cheese gougeres, fritters with chard and ricotta, Dorset crab with celeriac, caviar and crab tempura, lobster with celery and lobster sauce, chicken and pheasant pithivier: you get the picture. The Dorchester was something of a fading classic in the 90s but AD has helped revitalise the Park Lane institution and this shows the power of food and drink to hotels.

With venison in a peanut coating the restaurant at Alain Ducasse shows a flash of contemporary innovation – Ducasse’s technique of filling his kitchens with talent (and plenty of foot soldiers) is shown to pay off. Hence the mark-ups on the wine and the hefty pricing. Luxury like this costs. And if you can afford it, it’s worth it.